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An arresting piece of jewelry: Golden ball and chain

Jewelry is a decorative item that is carried on the body. It might have practical purpose, say as a clasp or a belt buckle (or in the form of the economic value it represents) but what makes it “jewelry”, and not clothing, or money, or something else, is that its primary function is communicative. It’s there to symbolize the wearer’s qualities and aspirations, to make the wearer appear a certain way to the surrounding world and him- og herself.

Because jewelry exists in so many forms, attempting to give an answer to what it might communicate, is a very difficult task, and one that by far exceeds the ability and patience of this writer. A satisfying answer must include a vast span, that covers everything from the punk’s safety pin to the Pope’s tiara, from Hello Kitty bracelets to carven bone in Stone Age burial mounds. The message can be religious or political, it can be “cultural”, or sentimental, or ironic. It might be partly well definable, as for example in a wedding band or a royal crown, but will often be obscure, also to the wearer, who chose or bought it.

The vast majority of contemporary jewelry has no readily available “meaning”. It’s “beautiful” or “stylish” or “cool” og “cute”, and very often “masculine” and “feminine” … meaning is hazy … “aesthetic” …

But for the … typically something like: Beautiful, glamorous, sophisticated, wealthy, powerful, of high status … sexual allure, sex. Crudely: A claim to a position in some hierarchy. “What I’m worth”.

But this kind of preoccupation with one’s status and allure, with the the admiration (and envy) of others, carries serious risks: narcissism … is dangerous, as countless myths, proverbs, and religious texts tell us… This is not the way to find fulfilment… He who desires the world’s admiration is its prisoner. Also: Even the most beautiful and glamorous will either die, or grow old and weak and then die. No matter how much wealth or power one accumulates, this is a loser’s game.

This is an attempt at illustrating these dangers through jewelry itself, what might be called meta jewelry or anti-jewelry jewelry.

A gold-plated ball with inset stones weighing approximately 2.5 kg. …Description …. Limiting the wearer’s freedom of movement is a central point, but it can be worn: The wearer can remain stationary, sitting in a chair og standing at a reception…. The chain is also long enough, and the ball light enough, that it can be lifted and moved with some difficulty, navigating stairs, entering or exiting rooms. The warer can also drag the ball behind her, like a prisoner on the run from a jailer who will inevitably catch up.

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